Customizable and biodegradable cellulose-based fabric pigments and inks take sustainable fashion to the next level
Thinking about couture fashion, probably the last thing that comes to mind is cellulose, the main structural component of plant cell walls. Yet luxury fashion designer Patrick McDowell proves that the unexpected can sometimes pave the path to a truly sustainable, unique piece. The London-based designer partnered with Sparxell—a color platform tech company founded by University of Cambridge scientists in 2023—to incorporate 100% plant-based cellulose pigments into a couture gown and commercially available shirt dress. This marks the first time Sparxell’s technology is being used in the fashion space, and it likely won’t be the last.
Conventional dyeing in the fashion industry is not known for its sustainability; toxic chemicals and fossil-derived materials can be common, plus the process pollutes waterways and releases carbon emissions. Sparxell’s tech tackles this issue by creating high-performance, biodegradable pigments—plus inks, glitters, sequins and more—made of cellulose sourced from agricultural waste and wood pulp, eliminating the use of plastics and toxins altogether.
Sustainability has always been at the forefront of the Patrick McDowell brand, so its partnership with Sparxell is fitting. By offering made-to-order garments in limited editions, textile waste is significantly reduced, while repair services and complimentary refits help lengthen the lifespan of a special piece. Sparxell’s tech is “advancing what’s possible in responsible luxury. It opens up entirely new creative possibilities,” says Founder and Creative Director Patrick McDowell. “Their plant-based pigments and plastic-free sequins are exceptionally vibrant yet completely non-toxic and biodegradable.”
Patrick McDowell’s couture gown, featuring an asymmetrical oversized floral motif, was revealed at the Future Fabrics Expo 2025 in London. It uses two finishes of Sparxell’s sophisticated blue pigment: matte and shimmer. In typical fashion production, a sparkly color might involve dyed plastics or mined materials. Instead, Sparxell’s tech uses structural color to capture light, similar to a butterfly’s iridescent wings.
This is about making sustainability tangible,” McDowell says. “One piece shows what’s possible at the highest level of craft, the other makes that possibility part of everyday life
Patrick McDowell
The brand also released a limited edition floral shirt dress as part of the collection that uses Sparxell pigments in its all-over print. “This is about making sustainability tangible,” McDowell says. “One piece shows what’s possible at the highest level of craft, the other makes that possibility part of everyday life.”
The signature blue used in McDowell’s designs is the first pigment to be released to the commercial fashion market, but there’s more to come. Sparxell’s color tech creates an endless supply of nature-inspired color variations, all based on the magical properties of cellulose. By deciphering an elemental color code, Sparxell is able to use the structural colors of plants and animals to create colorants with highly reflective photonic properties. The end result is a vivid, fade-resistant, biodegradable pigment, all without the use of petroleum-based products or toxic dyes.
In addition to its sustainable pigments, Sparxell teamed up with low-impact textile company Positive Materials to commercially release a dye-free textile ink, also available in matte and shimmer versions like its pigment counterpart. Starting in September 2025, an all-over printed cotton jersey will be available for commercial orders in the European market.
“For too long, the textile industry had no choice other than to accept that vibrant colors meant environmental damage,” says Dr. Benjamin Droguet, Sparxell Founder and CEO. “Sparxell’s bio-inspired technology shatters that assumption, delivering exceptional results from plant-based cellulose. Our vision is to make [it] the new standard across fashion, proving that high performance and working in harmony with nature are perfectly aligned.”
Patrick McDowell’s Floral Shirt Dress is available for purchase at PatrickMcDowell.co.uk.
CONTEXT: incontent
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